October 18-20, 2025

Marti Eicholz

The Caroline Islands present a fascinating tapestry of geography, history, and culture in the western Pacific Ocean. This expansive archipelago encompasses several distinct island groups and is politically divided between two nations: the Federated States of Micronesia and Palau. Situated at the westernmost edge of the Caroline chain, Palau stands out for its remarkable diversity of cultures, traditions, and languages. The local economy thrives primarily on tuna fishing, which remains the backbone of the region’s industry. In addition, tourism has become increasingly vital, drawing adventurers and nature enthusiasts from around the globe. The islands also export copra—dried coconut meat—and intricate handicrafts, highlighting the inhabitants’ resourcefulness and artistic heritage.

The name “Caroline Islands” traces its origins to King Charles V of Spain, reflecting a legacy of changing colonial powers. Over the centuries, administrative control shifted from Spain to Germany, then Japan, and ultimately to the United States, which governed the islands as a United Nations trust territory. Palau’s journey to sovereignty culminated in independence in 1994, marking a pivotal moment in its national narrative and the region’s evolving identity.

The Republic of Palau is a sovereign nation nestled within the western Caroline Islands, comprising eight principal islands and approximately 250 smaller ones. These islands are scattered roughly five hundred miles southeast of the Philippines, placing Palau in the southwestern reaches of the Micronesian region. Its strategic location situates it less than 2,000 miles south of Japan, about 3,815 miles southeast of India, 400 miles north of Papua New Guinea, 950 miles southeast of the Philippines, and 830 miles southwest of Guam. This makes Palau an important crossroads in the Pacific, both geographically and culturally.

Palau’s reputation for breathtaking natural beauty is well earned. With more than 300 islands, collectively known as Belau, the country offers pristine waters, lush forests, and unique geological formations that have made it a sought-after destination for divers and explorers searching for adventure. Yet, beyond its stunning landscapes, Palau is also renowned for its vibrant cultural heritage. The local culture places a strong emphasis on environmental stewardship and the intricate relationship between humans and nature. Traditional beliefs and customs underscore the importance of living in harmony with the natural world, a philosophy that resonates with contemporary conservation initiatives and global sustainability efforts.

Koror Island, home to the volcanic and coralline city of Koror, serves as Palau’s commercial heart and largest urban area. Covering just three- square miles, Koror offers visitors and residents a peaceful, welcoming atmosphere right in the center of Micronesia. As the nation’s main commercial hub and most populous locale, Koror was once the provisional capital until 2006, when the seat of government moved to Ngerulmud—a purpose-built city featuring only government buildings and no permanent residential population. Koror continues to play a pivotal role in Palau’s economic, social, and cultural life.

For those interested in Palau’s unique heritage, the Belau National Museum stands as a key institution dedicated to preserving and showcasing the nation’s history, art, and natural wonders. The museum collects, documents, and displays a wide array of artifacts representing Palau’s diverse cultural legacy, fostering public appreciation and scholarly research. Equally noteworthy is the Etpison Museum, which offers exhibits on the region’s history, traditional currency, archaeological sites, and indigenous clothing. The museum provides insights into the profound influence of foreign powers on Palau while celebrating local customs such as childbirth ceremonies and the craftsmanship of traditional canoes.

Among Babeldaob Island’s most impressive attractions is the Ngardmau Waterfall, renowned as the tallest waterfall in Micronesia. This natural marvel cascades from Mt. Ngerchelchuus, Palau’s highest peak, and is accessible via a challenging 30-minute trek through dense jungle terrain. The journey rewards you with stunning views and a deeper appreciation for the island’s rich ecological and cultural landscape.

Walk across the modern suspension Japan-Palau Friendship Bridge that stretches in a soaring arch over the channel between Koror and Babeldaob, replacing the bridge that collapsed in 1996.

Palau Aquarium, a diverse collection of marine life, from mangroves to jellyfish, and even a touch tank, consists of five main exhibits that show the different ecosystems found in Palau, from mangroves to seagrass, followed by the inner reef, outer reef and deep ocean. Browse the exhibits and experience Palau's different habitats and unique creatures.

Jellyfish Lake is a unique marine lake, famous for its population of millions of harmless golden jellyfish and moon jellyfish. The golden jellyfish perform a daily migration, swimming from one side of the lake to the other to follow the sun and optimize its symbiotic algae for photosynthesis. Over thousands of years, the jellyfish have adapted to their predator-free environment, and their stingers are now generally imperceptible to humans, allowing you to safely snorkel among them. The lake is isolated from the ocean, creating a distinct ecosystem. My shipmates found the opportunity to snorkel with millions of non-stinging jellyfish in Jellyfish Lake was a once-in-a-lifetime, wondrous experience.

Palau has some of the most pristine and biodiverse underwater ecosystems. Dive into the crystal-clear waters of the Rock Islands and witness a mesmerizing world of coral reefs, and 1300 species of reef fishes in riotous colors.

Rock Islands Southern Lagoon is a protected area of 387 square miles, a large expanse of marine and island ecosystems, brimming with mangroves, caves, forests, wetlands This area is a UNESCO World Heritage site recognized for its exceptional natural and cultural value, which includes a complex system of 445 uninhabited limestone islands with unique mushroom-like shapes, brimming with mangroves, caves, forests, wetlands, fifty-two marine lakes, and extensive coral reef systems. It is a highly diverse environment with over 385 species of coral, numerous fish species, thirteen-plus species of sharks and turtles.

Rock Islands host hawksbills, megapodes, brown to black chicken-like birds with large feet, and endangered species like the dugong, The Dugong is a large, grey, brown bulbous animal with a flattened fluked tail, like that of a whale, no dorsal fin, paddle like flippers and distinctive head shape with a broad flat muzzle and mouth for easy grazing along the seabed.

Hawksbills, named for their narrow, pointed beak, have overlapping scales on their shells, giving it a serrated look on the edges. These colored and patterned shells are highly valuable and often sold as "tortoiseshell."

The site is also important culturally, containing evidence of human settlement and adaptation over 3,000 years, including stonework villages and burial sites.

The Milky Way in Palau is a natural lagoon in the Rock Islands known for its white, limestone mud that gives the water a milky appearance. Visitors can take the mud from the seabed and use it as a natural mud bath, as it is believed to have therapeutic and rejuvenating properties for the skin. Surrounded by cliffs and lush vegetation, the spot is popular for its natural beautiful setting and for being a relaxing, serene, adventurous, and otherworldly experience.

The Palau archipelago, including the main island of Koror, a republic in Micronesia, was a strategic Japanese stronghold in the Pacific. The US launched this offensive in 1944 to neutralize Japanese bases in the central Pacific, support the drive to retake the Philippines, and provide bases for bombing Japan. The campaign was part of a broader US strategy to move closer to Japan. The US invaded Palau to capture its airfield and neutralize the Japanese forces there. This significant battle for the islands was the Battle of Peleliu, September 15–November 27, 1944.

Japanese forces, under General Nakagawa, had fortified the island with extensive cave and tunnel systems in the coral and limestone terrain. The battle was extremely bloody, with heavy US casualties as they fought for every yard of ground. Over 28,000 US service members fought in the battle and endured a 40 percent casualty rate, while over 10,000 Japanese soldiers were killed. The Japanese troops fought to the death, refusing to surrender. The United States secured a costly victory, capturing the island after nearly three months of fighting. The Battle of Peleliu had a profound and lasting impact on the physical and social landscape of Palau, and its high cost was noted by the US forces who fought there.

The small size and manageable traffic give Koror a relaxed, quaint feel, similar to a quiet coastal town. There's a feeling of tranquility and simplicity.

The Odyssey moves on from Koror, a place that inspires a sense of adventure and creates awe-inspiring, "pinch-me" moments.

 

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